"WHEN IN DOUBT, WEAR RED"
It’s far from a fleeting trend, says Frankie Graddon
Words
FRANKIE GRADDON
When it comes to making an entrance, no colour does it quite like red. Think Julia Roberts in that off-the-shoulder dress in Pretty Woman. Or Funny Face’s Audrey Hepburn descending the stairs of the Louvre in scarlet Givenchy. The closest I have felt to siren-status is in a slinky red slip on my honeymoon.
Red stirs something – love, danger, passion, chaos – it’s not the kind of colour that lets you fade into the background.
It's no wonder the fashion lot are obsessed. This season designers put red front and centre on the catwalks: tomato-toned minis at Prada; fiery floor-sweeping maxis at Proenza Schouler; totes in chilli-pepper at Louis Vuitton. This summer’s style memo is scorching hot.
Far from being a fleeting trend, red has a rich fashion heritage. Coco Chanel was known for pairing her monochrome looks with a red lip and matching manicure (there's no finishing touch more vampy than a slick of Chanel’s Rouge Noir nail polish). And when a young Valentino Garavani spotted a woman wearing red velvet at the opera, a love affair with the colour began. Starting with the 1959 ‘fiesta dress’, red gowns became his signature and have been worn by everyone from Claudia Schiffer to Sienna Miller. The Italian house’s use of the colour is so iconic that ‘Valentino Red’ has been made into a Pantone shade.
From Dorothy’s ruby slippers to Emma Stone’s flaming gown in Cruella, red has also been used to create those unforgettable cinema moments we love. On the red carpet too: Cindy Crawford’s Jessica Rabbit plunge dress worn at the 1991 Oscars caused such a sensation that it garnered column inches across the globe (the nineties equivalent of going viral). It was the first time Versace had been seen on the red carpet and put the label on the map as a go-to for Hollywood.
But why does red leave such a lasting impression? According to colour psychology, red can trigger increased adrenaline production, leading to heightened emotions and elevated energy levels. A powerful visual stimulus dating back centuries, the Ancient Egyptians associated red with Sekhmet, goddess of war and healing. It was used to symbolise both destruction and victory.
Red means business and it's long been a power dressing tool used by women of influence from politicians (see Margaret Thatcher, Kamala Harris, AOC) to royalty; who could forget Princess Diana’s roster of red skirt suits? The second woman in history to serve as U.S. Supreme Court Justice, Ruth Bader Ginsburg wore red to make her stand out against a sea of grey-suited men.
Even the smallest hint of red has transformative abilities. Just look at social media’s viral ‘unexpected red theory’ – an interior design technique that introduces something red to a room to give it instant oomph. When translated into clothes the rule holds true: add a red sandal to your favourite summer jeans; drape a red sweater over a T-shirt and denim shorts; switch your classic white tank for a red one instead and pair it with wide linen trousers. A red lip-stain is enough to give a simple black dress that extra something.
Or, you can forget subtlety and go full-blown by wearing red head-to-toe. It's easier than you might think. Bottega Veneta put forward the idea of mixing multiple tones in one look (brick shirt, burgundy blazer, tomato trousers). A clever styling trick to reinvent whatever red pieces you already have in your wardrobe. Or keep it simple and effective with a ready made outfit of a red summer dress or co-ord. Stick to a minimal shape, allowing the focus to be on colour, and add sandals in black or brown.
Seminal American designer Bill Blass once said: “when in doubt wear red”. As impactful as it is enduring – and with so many ways to style it, I couldn't agree more.
HOW TO WEAR RED NOW
 The cotton sundressThe perfect holiday piece. Throw it over a swimsuit at the beach, add sandals and a tote for lunch then dress it up with jewellery and a woven clutch for dinner. |  The linen midi skirtIt's the season of the hero skirt and bright red pleats really pack a punch. This is how to update your T-shirts and tanks in seconds. Or play matchy-matchy with the coordinating top for an effortless but chic summer outfit. |
 The sporty shortsFor a lower-key look head towards the deeper end of the red colour spectrum. A pair of burgundy track shorts will update your off-duty outfits. Lean into the sporty mood with a navy or marl grey sweater. Or simply wear with a white linen shirt and leather slides at the weekend. |  The rope sandalsThese sandals do the tonal mixing for you by clashing hot red and crimson. Use them as an unexpected pop against white jeans, chocolate linen, black cotton – they’ve got plenty of style mileage. Just make sure you’ve got a pedi – red, of course. |
Frankie is a freelance fashion journalist writing for the likes of The Times and The Telegraph. Read more from Frankie via her Substack MUMISH.